Steve Barth
Haider Ackermann presented the fourth edition of the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture By Haider Ackermann project on Wednesday evening, with a plethora of boldface names in attendance. The minimalist invitation was reflected in the powder blue main floor of the show, and the opening looks were mainly black tuxes, jackets, and bustiers made of lightweight wool. Ackermann paid homage to Madame Grès with hybrid redingotes and plissé breastplates, but there were few of Gaultier’s signature looks like sailors jerseys, cross-dressing, street chic, and tartan. Ackermann also included some of Gaultier’s iconic looks, like conical bras in icy blue and turquoise faille and hints of corsetry. The show also featured some great menswear looks, from a turquoise mess jacket to a dazzling metallic embroidered coat and jacket. The soundtrack featured words by Sophie Fontanel on the Iranian revolt and a rendition of Baraye by Shervin Hajipour. At the finale, Ackermann and Gaultier marched together down the runway.
At Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture By Haider Ackermann, the fourth edition of the ongoing project of inviting acclaimed designers to create one-off couture collections for the famed and now retired Gaultier, the audience size was about a third that of traditional Gaultier shows. The show featured a wide range of guests, including Kylie Jenner, Timothée Chalamet, Tilda Swinton, Baz Luhrmann, Carla Bruni, Catherine Deneuve, Anselm Kiefer, Lou Doillon, and Daniel de la Falaise. Ackermann paid homage to Madame Grès with hybrid redingotes and plissé breastplates, but there were few of Gaultier’s signature looks. Ackermann also included some of Gaultier’s iconic looks, like conical bras in icy blue and turquoise faille and hints of corsetry. The show also featured some great menswear looks, from a turquoise mess jacket to a dazzling metallic embroidered coat and jacket. The soundtrack featured words by Sophie Fontanel on the Iranian revolt and a rendition of Baraye by Shervin Hajipour. At the finale, Ackermann and Gaultier marched together down the runway.
The Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture By Haider Ackermann show was a succinct, stylish, impeccably tailored and smartly draped collection. Ackermann paid homage to Madame Grès with hybrid redingotes and plissé breastplates, but there were few of Gaultier’s signature looks. Ackermann also included some of Gaultier’s iconic looks, like conical bras in icy blue and turquoise faille and hints of corsetry. The show also featured some great menswear looks, from a turquoise mess jacket to a dazzling metallic embroidered coat and jacket. The soundtrack featured words by Sophie Fontanel on the Iranian revolt and a rendition of Baraye by Shervin Hajipour. At the finale, Ackermann and Gaultier marched together down the runway.
Haider Ackermann presented the fourth edition of the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture By Haider Ackermann project on Wednesday evening, with a plethora of boldface names in attendance. The minimalist invitation was reflected in the powder blue main floor of the show, and the opening looks were mainly black tuxes, jackets, and bustiers made of lightweight wool. Ackermann paid homage to Madame Grès with hybrid redingotes and plissé breastplates, but there were few of Gaultier’s signature looks like sailors jerseys, cross-dressing, street chic, and tartan. Ackermann also included some of Gaultier’s iconic looks, like conical bras in icy blue and turquoise faille and hints of corsetry. The show also featured some great menswear looks, from a turquoise mess jacket to a dazzling metallic embroidered coat and jacket. The soundtrack featured words by Sophie Fontanel on the Iranian revolt and a rendition of Baraye by Shervin Hajipour. At the finale, Ackermann and Gaultier marched together down the runway.
Haider Ackermann presented the fourth edition of the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture By Haider Ackermann project on Wednesday evening, with a plethora of boldface names in attendance. The minimalist invitation was reflected in the powder blue main floor of the show, and the opening looks were mainly black tuxes, jackets, and bustiers made of lightweight wool. Ackermann paid homage to Madame Grès with hybrid redingotes and plissé breastplates, but there were few of Gaultier’s signature looks. Ackermann also included some of Gaultier’s iconic looks, like conical bras in icy blue and turquoise faille and hints of corsetry. The show featured some great menswear looks, from a turquoise mess jacket to a dazzling metallic embroidered coat and jacket. The soundtrack featured words by Sophie Fontanel on the Iranian revolt and a rendition of Baraye by Shervin Hajipour. At the finale, Ackermann and Gaultier marched together down the runway.
Haider Ackermann presented the fourth edition of the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture By Haider Ackermann project on Wednesday evening. The minimalist invitation was reflected in the powder blue main floor of the show, and the opening looks were mainly black tuxes, jackets, and bustiers made of lightweight wool. Ackermann paid homage to Madame Grès with hybrid redingotes and plissé breastplates, but there were few of Gaultier’s signature looks. Ackermann also included some of Gaultier’s iconic looks, like conical bras in icy blue and turquoise faille and hints of corsetry. The show featured some great menswear looks, from a turquoise mess jacket to a dazzling metallic embroidered coat and jacket. The soundtrack featured words by Sophie Fontanel on the Iranian revolt and a rendition of Baraye by Shervin Hajipour. At the finale, Ackermann and Gaultier marched together down the runway. The event was attended by a plethora of boldface names including Kylie Jenner, Timothée Chalamet, Tilda Swinton, Baz Luhrmann, Carla Bruni, Catherine Deneuve, Anselm Kiefer, Lou Doillon, and Daniel de la Falaise.
Haider Ackermann presented the fourth edition of the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture By Haider Ackermann project on Wednesday evening. The minimalist invitation was reflected in the powder blue main floor of the show, and the opening looks were mainly black tuxes, jackets, and bustiers made of lightweight wool. Ackermann paid homage to Madame Grès with hybrid redingotes and plissé breastplates, but there were few of Gaultier’s signature looks. Ackermann also included some of Gaultier’s iconic looks, like conical bras in icy blue and turquoise faille and hints of corsetry. The show featured some great menswear looks, from a turquoise mess jacket to a dazzling metallic embroidered coat and jacket. The soundtrack featured words by Sophie Fontanel on the Iranian revolt and a rendition of Baraye by Shervin Hajipour. At the finale, Ackermann and Gaultier marched together down the runway. The event was attended by a plethora of boldface names including Kylie Jenner, Timothée Chalamet, Tilda Swinton, Baz Luhrmann, Carla Bruni, Catherine Deneuve, Anselm Kiefer, Lou Doillon, and Daniel de la Falaise. The show was a succinct, stylish, impeccably tailored and smartly draped collection. It was refreshing that Haider didn’t pay slavish homage to Gaultier’s canon, instead experimenting with classical techniques of plissé, draping, and impeccable tailleurs. The audience was wowed by looks like an icy blue loose mannish matinee idol suit and a zippered bomber in Pacific blue faille with a long crepe skirt. Although there were some experiments that didn’t work out, like tops encrusted with spiky feathers, the show was an intriguing and successful experiment.
