Steve Barth
The Paris menswear season and couture week offered four widely different fashion visions to tap into the style pulse of the French fashion capital. Olivier Saillard presented Moda Povera V Les Vêtements de Renée, a performance art fashion display devoted to his mother, who was a cab driver. Saillard emptied his mother’s wardrobe and transformed it into elegant, timeless pieces for today. The presentation was held in the oval Salon de la Princesse, an example of Baroque architecture and decoration within the Archives Nationales. Veteran model Axelle Doué wore 30 looks from Saillard’s mother’s wardrobe, each given its own name. AZ Factory showcased their latest collaboration with a young designer, Tennessy Thoreson, at the chic drag-queen club in St Germain. The collection, Super Heroines, featured 12 characters, mostly drag queens, and each look was hand-sewn by AZ Factory’s atelier in Paris. Taak presented an abstract impressionist collection inspired by the painting of Van Gogh. Designer Takuya Morikawa showcased powder blue silk pyjamas, faux fur, denim cocktails, and PVC cocktails intersected by shaggy trim. Steven Passaro presented a collection inspired by German photographer Caroline Koenigs. His designs included elegant jackets, rock gent redingotes, cool shirts, knitted jacquard tops, deconstructed jackets with tulle plissé, and ecru woollen pants with mock cummerbund meets corset.
The Paris menswear season and couture week showcased four unique fashion visions. Olivier Saillard presented Moda Povera V Les Vêtements de Renée, a performance art fashion display devoted to his mother, who was a cab driver. Saillard emptied his mother’s wardrobe and transformed it into elegant, timeless pieces for today. The presentation was held in the oval Salon de la Princesse, an example of Baroque architecture and decoration within the Archives Nationales. Veteran model Axelle Doué wore 30 looks from Saillard’s mother’s wardrobe, each given its own name. AZ Factory showcased their latest collaboration with a young designer, Tennessy Thoreson, at the chic drag-queen club in St Germain. The collection, Super Heroines, featured 12 characters, mostly drag queens, and each look was hand-sewn by AZ Factory’s atelier in Paris. Taak presented an abstract impressionist collection inspired by the painting of Van Gogh. Designer Takuya Morikawa showcased powder blue silk pyjamas, faux fur, denim cocktails, and PVC cocktails intersected by shaggy trim. Steven Passaro presented a collection inspired by German photographer Caroline Koenigs. His designs included elegant jackets, rock gent redingotes, cool shirts, knitted jacquard tops, deconstructed jackets with tulle plissé, and ecru woollen pants with mock cummerbund meets corset.
Olivier Saillard’s Moda Povera V Les Vêtements de Renée was an emotive event that highlighted his mother’s wardrobe. The presentation was held in the oval Salon de la Princesse, an example of Baroque architecture and decoration within the Archives Nationales. Veteran model Axelle Doué wore 30 looks from Saillard’s mother’s wardrobe, each given its own name. AZ Factory showcased their latest collaboration with a young designer, Tennessy Thoreson, at the chic drag-queen club in St Germain. The collection, Super Heroines, featured 12 characters, mostly drag queens, and each look was hand-sewn by AZ Factory’s atelier in Paris. Taak presented an abstract impressionist collection inspired by the painting of Van Gogh. Designer Takuya Morikawa showcased powder blue silk pyjamas, faux fur, denim cocktails, and PVC cocktails intersected by shaggy trim. Steven Passaro presented a collection inspired by German photographer Caroline Koenigs. His designs included elegant jackets, rock gent redingotes, cool shirts, knitted jacquard tops, deconstructed jackets with tulle plissé, and ecru woollen pants with mock cummerbund meets corset.
Olivier Saillard’s Moda Povera V Les Vêtements de Renée was an emotive event that highlighted his mother’s wardrobe. The presentation was held in the oval Salon de la Princesse, an example of Baroque architecture and decoration within the Archives Nationales. Veteran model Axelle Doué wore 30 looks from Saillard’s mother’s wardrobe, each given its own name. The looks included a draped tunic that could have passed muster in a Yohji Yamamoto show, long stretch gowns composed of T-shirts, and a long dress in semi-sheer silver fabric. The finale was greeted with over a minute of sustained applause, rising to a crescendo when Olivier embraced two big sisters in the audience.
AZ Factory showcased their latest collaboration with a young designer, Tennessy Thoreson, at the chic drag-queen club in St Germain. The collection, Super Heroines, featured 12 characters, mostly drag queens, and each look was hand-sewn by AZ Factory’s atelier in Paris. The clothes varied from an abstract expressionist body stocking and matching boots or stark taught bodies wrapped in snakes of faux fur, to body-hugging denim cocktails for the show’s stripper and PVC cocktails intersected by shaggy trim.
Taak presented an abstract impressionist collection inspired by the painting of Van Gogh. Designer Takuya Morikawa showcased powder blue silk pyjamas, faux fur, denim cocktails, and PVC cocktails intersected by shaggy trim. His best looks were his most restrained, like a really natty gents top that began in waxy leather and morphed into fresh wool halfway down the torso. Inverted drip-dry cool. Or superb, roomy undertaker’s coats in anthracite jacquard.
Steven Passaro presented a collection inspired by German photographer Caroline Koenigs. His designs included elegant jackets, rock gent redingotes, cool shirts, knitted jacquard tops, deconstructed jackets with tulle plissé, and ecru woollen pants with mock cummerbund meets corset. Passaro favored a broad shoulder for his busy young man suits. He finished a deconstructed jacket with tulle plissé, which added a dramatic kick, as if wings had sprouted from the garment.
The Paris menswear season and couture week offered four unique fashion visions. Olivier Saillard’s Moda Povera V Les Vêtements de Renée was an emotive event that highlighted his mother’s wardrobe. AZ Factory showcased their latest collaboration with a young designer, Tennessy Thoreson, at the chic drag-queen club in St Germain. Taak presented an abstract impressionist collection inspired by the painting of Van Gogh. Steven Passaro presented a collection inspired by German photographer Caroline Koenigs. Each designer showcased their own unique style and vision, giving insight into the style pulse of the French fashion capital.
