Steve Barth
PARIS HAUTE COUTURE WEEK: VIKTOR&ROLF’S IRREVERENT COLLECTION
Viktor&Rolf celebrated their 30th anniversary with a show-stopping haute couture collection. The Dutch brand showcased a fusion of suggestive lingerie, form-fitting bodysuits, and casual swimwear, all crafted from stretchy materials that sculpted silhouettes on the body. Departing from their traditional voluminous designs, Viktor&Rolf surprised the audience with looks featuring voluminous lettering conveying messages such as “Dream on” and “I wish you well.” The collection also saw the incorporation of headless male mannequins into the looks, symbolizing anonymous men. The most photographed moment of the show occurred when one model appeared surrounded by five mannequins dressed in suits, creating a humorous yet critical commentary. The collection predominantly featured bodysuits with bows, delicate floral details, exaggerated shoulder structures, and references to corsetry. It also included touches of cabaret with satin fabrics in copper and violet hues, long gloves, layered ruffle capes, oversized structured bikinis, and even a double swimsuit look.
ZUHAIR MURAD’S MIDIGHT SCENT COLLECTION
Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad presented his latest collection titled “Midnight Scent” at the opulent Hôtel Potocki. Murad opted for a subtle transformation of his distinct aesthetic while remaining true to his origins. The collection featured slightly more relaxed volumes, lightened embroidery and embellishments, and instead focused on lace silhouettes and pleated and draped designs. The collection flirted with the style of mysterious nocturnal women, evoking both seductive vampires and gothic princesses. Sheer embroidered dresses with lace details were paired with cinched-waist velvet blazers, chiffon veils, and ostrich feather decorations. Voluminous elements adorned long flowing trains, floor-length skirts constructed with organza flowers, cascades of ruffles layered over shoulders, and short bolero jackets with floral inspiration. The collection showcased classic silhouettes of bustier bodices and wide skirts, along with stunning red carpet looks such as a semi-transparent jumpsuit embroidered with crystal spider-web patterns and tulip-shaped embroidered mini dresses. The collection also included more informal pieces with couture savoir-faire, such as a long black coat adorned with sparkling tarantula applications and draped skirts elevated by long gloves.
CONCLUSION
Viktor&Rolf and Zuhair Murad delivered captivating shows during Paris Haute Couture Week. Viktor&Rolf celebrated their 30th anniversary with an irreverent collection, showcasing a fusion of suggestive lingerie, form-fitting bodysuits, and casual swimwear. Their designs departed from their traditional voluminous styles and instead featured voluminous lettering conveying messages and incorporated headless male mannequins. Zuhair Murad presented his “Midnight Scent” collection, which flirted with the style of mysterious nocturnal women. The collection featured lace silhouettes, pleated and draped designs, and voluminous elements adorned with embroidery and ruffles. Both shows were highly anticipated and left attendees in awe of the designers’ creativity and originality.
